© 2003-2006 David Moles

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life

Monkey in landscape

8 o'clock, December 13, 2005

Setting: A cavernous, cavernous café-bar, a block off Basel’s Marktplatz, bright indirect lighting in warm colors, trendy paneling in gray marble and corrugated aluminum, lots of white paint, tables and chairs and couches evoking a campus cafeteria by way of IKEA. Extras: Assorted Basilers, ages four months to forty — it’s a bimodal distribution, with a major peak around, say, twenty, and a minor peak around, say, two.

The protagonist sits at one of the institutional tables, his back to a large radiator, his things (sportcoat, overcoat, wool cap, briefcase, steno-style Moleskine, with Charles Darwin has a Posse sticker, laptop, also with Charles Darwin has a Posse sticker, shopping bag from the Läckerli-Huus) exploding over the table and two of the chairs. He’s a little overdressed, not just for the café-bar but for, from what he’s seen so far, the European continent: blue button-down shirt, charcoal-grey slacks, black wingtips.

On the table next to the laptop is a quarter-liter of Naturblond from Unser Bier (motto: Bier von hier). It’s drinkable, but its main attraction was the convenient placement of the taps: easy to point to.

Two days: Two days of nonstop talk, in between bouts of coughing. Diagramming the Day Job on whiteboards, juggling acronyms, trading product and process horror stories. Discourses in amateur cultural studies and amateur urbanology, the small talk of expatriates everywhere. (Very few of the people the protagonist has talked to are actually Swiss, and the Germans and the French and the English all have their own opinions.)

It’s all seemed to go well, but the protagonist is a little dazed. Two days of Thai red curry, coffee, Thai green curry, coffee, coffee, beer, beer, pineapple juice, fried chicken, fried plantains, yogurt, coffee, roast lamb, coffee, beer (von hier). Two nights of fitful sleep, an hour or two of wakefulness at three or four o’clock, then the sleep of the dead till the alarm goes off at seven like an air raid, followed by bells ringing up and down the Rhine. The protagonist’s metabolic clock is still somewhere over the Atlantic. The protagonist’s brain has been trying for two days to wrap itself around Hochdeutsch and Baseldütsch, two languages he doesn’t speak. Assurances that thirty percent of the people you meet in Basel are foreigners and everyone understands English meaning nothing to the monkey brain, which says Pass through the territory of the other tribe swiftly and without detection. The protagonist has played this game before, but not in a long while, perhaps too long, and he’s not entirely sure he remembers how. He tells himself that the first few days are always the hardest.

And also that this is only the practice round. If all goes well there will be another game, in six weeks, perhaps, or perhaps a month. He can look forward to living through these first days again; playing again, for real stakes.

The protagonist doesn’t know what he thinks. It’s all a little much for the monkey brain to deal with.

Comments

The bit about the monkey brain was awesome. I know the feeling. Good luck to you!

—— JeremyT, 9:02 AM, Tuesday, December 13, 2005

Obviously, if nothing else the experience has been good for the writing brain. Or is that the writing monkey? Good luck, dude.

—— Greg van Eekhout, 9:18 AM, Tuesday, December 13, 2005

Swiss German is maddening to me, much like Dutch, because I hear it and feel like I *ought* to understand it, but don't.

"Bier von hier" is a *terrible* motto.

—— aphrael, 11:28 AM, Tuesday, December 13, 2005

Weisch, dass chunt denn alles scho guet.

> He tells himself that the first few days are always the hardest.

My monkey brain finds the first three months easy, because it thinks it's on vacation. Then at somepoint it sinks in: holy crap, I *live* here??

Then the next few months are hell.

But exciting, and growth-inducing, to be sure.

—— Benjamin Rosenbaum, 5:50 PM, Monday, December 19, 2005

Their crazy moon language shouldn't concern you, it's their idiosyncrasies you need to worry about; and then subsequently ignore.

—— Njoroge, 9:37 AM, Wednesday, December 21, 2005

> "Bier von hier" is a *terrible* motto.

It's actually a pretty typical Swiss motto. They would blanch at brash superlatives of American advertising. Indeed, "Bier von hier" might be seen as rather bold and dashing in its unabashed, daring invocation of local patriotism, an emotion about which the Swiss are charmingly conflicted.

A typical Swiss advertising slogan would go something like "You might like this, and it probably isn't too bad for you, in moderation."

Example: current motto of Switzerland's biggest supermarket -- "Migros delivers" (Migros bringt's Ihnen). On the website of the second biggest (http://www.coop.ch) I can find no motto, unless "our coupons can be seen at one glance" is a motto.

In general, the Swiss eschew mottos that are not strictly factual. McDonald's has some difficulty as regards "I'm lovin' it!", since, really, who is loving it, and are they always loving it, or do their feelings about it vary? This sort of thing provokes a certain degree of disapproval.

—— Benjamin Rosenbaum, 11:53 AM, Wednesday, December 21, 2005

It’s better than the slogan someone up here was using — I think they meant to say “Beer means more, here” but it was laid out something like:


beer means
MORE HERE

“‘Beer’ means ‘More here’”?

I never did figure out what “more here” was supposed to mean...

—— David Moles, 8:29 PM, Thursday, January 5, 2006